Reptiles and Amphibians

Never buy any pets on a casual basis. Purchasing any type of animals is a long-term commitment that requires a lot of time, care, patience, finance, energy, love and companionship. Always read and research information on the animal you are interested in, to make sure you can meet all of its specific needs that will enable you to provide your companion pet with a long healthy life.

          Reptiles are quite unique and interesting to own as pets. Once you start learning on a certain reptile, observe their behavior and way of living, you grow fond of these amazing cold-blooded creatures. From a variety of species and characteristics to choose from, you will without a doubt find the right reptile for you. Reptiles and amphibians require quite a different habitat from other pets such as cats, dogs, birds and rodents. It is very important to read as much as possible on the specific species you are interested in before making any purchase decisions. You need to be able to duplicate their natural environment. Different reptiles require different kinds of environment. The appropriate diet, the proper amount of heat and humidity are all key to maintain a healthy reptile. Different levels of the latter ones vary from species to species.

General Care:
Cleaning: Your pet's environment should be kept clean and sanitary to prevent any illness or bacteria. Weekly cleaning is recommended. Never use any chemical products. Only the S.O.X. solution and hot water is recommended. Turtle Clean should be added to your turtle's tank to help eliminate organic waste and odors, and changing half the water should be done regularly. More details are given on the Turtle care sheet.

Feeding: Feeding varies considerably depending on what type of species you own. Some eats fresh fruits and vegetables, pellets, or insects, while others require a mixed diet. Nutrition and heat is very important in owning any type of reptiles. They each need a proper diet best suited for them and they also need heat to help digest their food. Some species needs a different kind of diet growing up. Some start by eating small insects when juvenile and then strictly fruits and vegetables once adult. Be sure to educate yourself furthermore on the specific diet your reptile strives for. You may check the "General Feeding" section to get an idea of what their menu should consist of.

          Fruit and Vegetable: Fruits and vegetables should be provided fresh every morning. Throw out any remaining food that hasn't been eaten every morning, and thoroughly clean the dishes. Avoid entirely feeding Iceberg lettuce. Instead, feed roman lettuce to your pet. Rated carrots, sweet potatoes, alfalfa, sprouts, peas and soft fruits such as pears, bananas, grapes, cantaloupe and strawberries is an excellent diet for most lizard that enjoys fruits and vegetables. Usually, offering roman lettuce and grated carrots daily, adding and altering to it, other fruits and vegetables that are mentioned above is a good way to provide them a variety and a slightly different dish regularly. Please take note that all fresh food should be grated or chopped into small pieces.

          Insects: Most lizards or amphibians require a diet that includes insects such as crickets and worms. A variety of these little critters can be purchased at your local pet store. Different types of lizards will eat a different quantity of insects. Smaller lizards usually require just a few daily while bigger lizards can eat several. The crickets should be sprinkled with a vitamin/calcium supplement powder every other feeding. All you need to do is keep a plastic bag specifically for this purpose, put a few crickets in and add a small quantity of the supplement powder. Keep the bag close and gently shake until the crickets are all covered in powder. Feed it to your lizard immediately afterwards. Worms should be placed in a little stoneware dish, small enough that will enable your lizard to reach in, but shallow enough to prevent the worms from climbing out. Usually, crickets should be fed daily or every other day, depending on the type of reptile you own, and worms should be fed weekly or every once and awhile. For the simple reason that worms tends to be a bit more fattening than crickets. It is also very important to feed these little critters before actually feeding them to your pet reptile. Providing your crickets with Cricket Bites and Water Bites will enable them to have additional calcium, vitamins and minerals when offered to your pet reptile.

          Pellets: Some reptiles, like Iguanas, turtles and land crabs also needs a special blend of pellets along with their basic diet of vegetables or insects to satisfy the appropriate diet required. The pellets simply need to be placed in a stoneware dish or sprinkled daily in the water if owning turtles. You will find these suitable pellet mixtures in your local pet store.

          Pinkies/rats/mice: Pinkie is the term used for either a baby mouse or baby rat. Some lizards, and tarantulas for instance will require an occasional pinky in their diet. Do not feed pinkies that are too big considering they are usually being swallowed whole by your pet. In smaller lizards that do eat pinkies, the size of the pinky should not be bigger than the size of head of your reptile. A small baby mouse of a few days old is usually big enough. However feeding your lizard a pinky once a month or even once every two months will be just fine. They are quite rich in protein and fat and over feeding most lizards with pinkies may lead to obesity and future health problems. Snakes on the other hand are strictly carnivores, which means they only eat meat. You will be required to feed baby or adult mice and rats. The general rule on determining the appropriate size of prey offered to your snake is having the prey approximately the same size as the snake's head. On average, a snake will eat once every week or even once every two weeks. This varies with age and the type of species of your snake. The reason their feeding schedule is quite different from other animals is because their digestive system breaks down nutrients in the food a lot more slowly than others. As they grow bigger, their appetite also increases; adjusting the size of their meals will therefore be required. Owning smaller snakes like the garter or water snakes for instance will require a diet of small goldfishes instead. Talk to your local pet store retailer on which diet will be appropriate for your pet reptile.

Handling: Handling should be done carefully and with delicacy. Never handle a lizard by the tail. Some lizards are really sensitive and their tails might easily break. Usually, if this were to happen, with most lizards the tail will grow back. Take note that the new generated tail may not look like the original. It might be slightly different in color and appearance.

          It is also very important to wash your hands after every cleaning or handling. Reptiles may be carriers of the salmonella bacteria that can easily be passed to human beings. Turtles are also specifically concerned with this type of bacteria. Young children should not be exposed to turtles and other types of reptiles.

Housing: Your new pet's environment should be as close as their natural environment as possible, especially the heat factor. Heat is crucial and is the key element for a healthy pet. They require heat to properly digest their food. The temperature should be gradient in their terrarium. Meaning it must be warmer in one corner and cooler in the other. The heating pads, specified later, should be placed underneath the glass aquarium, starting from either the left or right corner and should cover about ¾ of the tank. A heating rock can also be used and placed inside the tank in one corner. However, the heating pads are getting more popular and are really effective. The appropriate lighting system should be discussed fully with your local pet store retailer.

          Provide your pet with the appropriate substrate, such as sand for snakes and usually carpets for lizards. A safe product is required to ensure that it will not be harmful to your pet if in case swallowed. A few hiding places should be offered. It's good to place its main house on the cooler side of the tank, and place another type of hideout or accessory, such as a log or a rock on the warmer side of the tank. This will allow your pet to rest on either side and will be able to go lay down on the warmer side after its meals to help digest its food.

          Furnish with plenty of plants, rocks, driftwoods and any reptile products that will satisfy its natural habitat. Arboreal animals should be fully equipped with plenty of accessible climbing products. When housing an Iguana for instance, either an extensively immense aquarium is needed once they reach adulthood or a built in place in your home that will fulfill all the specific requirements and will give him ample room. Be sure to inform yourself on the size your reptile of interest will reach once adult, it may surprise you how some becomes a significant size.

Molting: Snakes and lizards will shed their skin as they grow. They are helpless during this time, therefore it's best not to bother and handle them too much until they are done shedding. Always make water available for them during this process. Misting them a few times a day will help. You will need to pick up the molt and throw it out. Some lizards, such as Leopard Geckos will actually eat their shedding skin. In this case, you probably wont notice the actual shedding itself since they are nocturnal pets and will eat the dried skin during the night. You will notice however a slight difference in your lizard's natural color, being usually a lighter color right before the molting process begins and brighter afterwards. Snakes also looses their appetite during shedding, therefore it is quite normal if your snakes refuses the prey you have offered.

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Things You Will Need:
Aquarium or proper cage: The size of your pet reptile's house will be determined by the size your new reptile will reach once full grown. This varies considerably from reptile to reptile. For relatively small lizards, a 10 or 15 gallons tank should be sufficient, while for moderately small to medium size lizards or small snakes, a 20 or 25 gallons tank would be more appropriate.

Screen cover: A screen cover is recommended with a glass aquarium to prevent your pet from escaping and to provide adequate ventilation.

Hood: An aquarium hood is good but you often need additional sockets to be able to satisfy the lighting requirements. However, using a Combination Reptile Hood is designed to perfectly facilitate the lighting needs of your reptile, by allowing you to accommodate the full spectrum fluorescent along with the proper incandescent bulbs required, all under one hood. Ask your local pet store retailer for additional information on the Combination Reptile Hood.

Heating pad/heating rock: Heat is key to maintain a healthy reptile. Heat is needed to help the digestion process. After meals, your lizard usually lies down directly on the heating rock or in the corner where it's warmest. The heating pad, which is placed underneath the tank, should cover about ¾ of the tank starting from one end. This will produce less heat in the opposite corner, making it a cooler place. Heating rocks may also be used, simply place it directly inside the tank.

Thermometer: A proper thermometer should be placed inside the tank to ensure that your reptile's environment is constantly maintained at the appropriate temperature. Again, it is emphasized that an accurate amount of heat is key to a healthy lizard.

Hydrometer: Some reptiles require more humidity than others and to be able to control the appropriate level of humidity, a hydrometer should be placed inside the tank and verified periodically.

Lighting: The proper lighting is very important and it should not be overlooked. Take note that your new pet reptile will most likely not require every types of lighting described below, but will need a combination of a few. Be certain to discuss with the pet store retailer to ensure you purchase the proper type of light, considering each reptiles requires different levels of light and heat.

          Fluorescent full spectrum: Fluorescent bulbs are available to satisfy three different reptile needs. Be certain you purchase the appropriate bulb, whether it is the simple need of daylight 2.0 for lizards and amphibians that require lower UV; the 5.0 tropical fluorescent that will satisfy the need of tropical or sub-tropical reptiles; or the 8.0 fluorescent that is required for lizards who strives for the desert environment.

          These fluorescent are bright, powerful and long lasting. These full spectrums fluorescent eventually loose its effectiveness; therefore it should be replaced approximately every 2 years. These fluorescent also stimulates appetite, activity and reproductive behavior.

          Basking Spot Lamp: Basking spot lamps are highly recommended for any reptiles that require a powerful source of heat. It should be placed to directly produce heat on a log or an accessory of some sort in which your reptile will be able to go lie down on and bask in the sun.

          Sun Glo Incandescent Bulb: This incandescent bulb closely stimulates the natural sunlight your reptile would get living in its natural environment. It helps promote digestion and enhance the natural color of your reptile or amphibian.

          Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp: These infrared heat lamps emit a powerful source of infrared heat emissions. They may be left on for 24 hours. It will not disrupt your reptile's normal daily activity and should be left on during nighttime to stimulate the natural moonlight. It's also perfect for nocturnal viewing.

          Night Glo Incandescent Bulb: Should be present during nighttime since it will protect your reptile from temperature drops during the night. It stimulates the natural moonlight and it's perfect for nocturnal viewing.

Substrates: Reptile carpet, rocks, sand, bark or moss all consist of adequate substrate that is safe and harmless to your pet. Choose the most appropriate type. For example, carpet is quite popular and convenient for lizards. It's also easy to clean and maintain. While soft sand is recommended when housing snakes. It enables them to move and glide with ease without harming or hurting their body.

Hideout accessories: Hideout is very important to every creature. It provides them with a sense of security and comfort. They should be provided with at least a few hiding places. During the day, it provides your pet to hide if they are stressed and it also provides the ability to your nocturnal pet to acquire sleep during the day.

Decorations: Plants, rocks and driftwoods are examples of accessories that are recommended to furnish your pet's living quarter. It is important to provide them shade and hiding spots while making a beautiful reenactment of their natural habitat. Reptiles that are arboreal (inhibiting trees) should have accessories that will satisfy their natural needs for climbing and living in trees.

Dishes: Food and water should be available at all times, in plastic or stoneware dishes. Heavy stoneware dishes are highly recommended since it will prevent them from tipping. Keep it clean and fresh.

Big water dish: Some reptiles require a place to swim or bath such as Iguanas and snakes. In this case provide them with a big container or dish with room temperature water. It is best to use chlorinate-free water. To prevent any bacteria, change water frequently since in most cases, they may soil in their tub.

Vitamin/Calcium powder: Fresh vegetables and live food should be sprinkled with a vitamin/calcium supplement powder either daily or at every three feedings. This may vary depending on the type or brand of supplement powder. Just lightly sprinkle over fresh vegetables to ensure your pet gets the appropriate amount of vitamins and minerals in their diet. For crickets, put the required amount of crickets in a plastic bag and pour a little bit of powder. Carefully shake until the crickets are lightly covered in powder, and then feed to you pet.

Moss: Some lizards need a higher level of humidity. Placing moss in a dish, lightly sprayed with water will help maintain the appropriate quantity of humidity. A daily mist will be required over the moss and in the aquarium to maintain humidity.

Water bottle: Numerous types of lizards and snakes require a daily mist of water. A new, clean water bottle that has never contained any soap or chemicals should be used. The water should be room temperature and chlorinate-free. Snakes and some lizards should be misted more frequently when they shed. This will help activate and ease the shedding process.

S.O.X Stain and Odor Eliminator: This stain and odor eliminator is the only product that should be use to clean and disinfect your reptile's tank. It's a safe product that will not harm your lizard, snake or amphibian.

Food: The proper food varies depending on the reptile or amphibian you own. Some are strictly vegetarians or carnivores while others require a diet of both. Some requires fresh fruits and vegetables, some pellets and others insects such as crickets, mealworms, wax worms, pinkies (baby mice or rats) or even adult mice or rats.

Live food container: Some reptiles need live food, such as worms and crickets in their diet. In this case, a small plastic container with a ventilation cover may be use to house crickets that will satisfy an average of a weekly amount of insects. A variety of the proper insects are sold in your local pet store.

Cricket water/Cricket bites: It is very important that the live food you offer to your pet is properly fed just before. Special food for these little critters is sold in pet stores and will satisfy to your reptile's diet. Water is offered in a gel format since offering a simple bowl of water may drown the crickets. Special foods are designed for crickets and mice.

Book: Different species require different needs can care. It is very important to know the type of reptile or amphibian you have or want to purchase. There is a wide variety to choose from and they all require specific and different care. It is very important to read and learn all you can on your new companion.

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General feeding:

Aquatic Turtles

• turtle pellets
• mealworms
• raw shrimp
• crickets
• goldfish

• reptile pellets
• crickets (when juvenile)
• fresh fruits and vegetables

• fresh fruits and vegetables
• crickets
• mealworms
• giant mealworms
• wax worms
• pinkies

• crickets
• mealworms
• giant mealworms
• wax worms
• pinkies

• crickets
• mealworms
• giant mealworms
• wax worms

• crickets
• mealworms
• wax worms

• amphibian pellets
• crickets
• flies
• mealworms

• goldfish

• pinkies
• mice

• rats

• rats

• crickets
• pinkies

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HUMIDITY/TEMPERATURE LEVEL CHART:

SPECIES		HUMIDITY	TEMPERATURE
Aquatic Turtles	Tropical		82-88°F
Green Iguanas	Tropical	60-95%	86-95°F
Bearded Dragon	Desert		88-92°F
Leopard Gecko	Desert to Moderate	0-40%	83-88°F
Day Gecko	Tropical	0-40%	80-85°F
Anoles	Semi-Tropical	50-60%	78-85°F
Amphibians    (Frogs,     Salamanders,     Toads)	Tropical	60-95%	varies by species
Garter Snakes	Moderate/Semi-Tropical	25-75%	72-88°F
King Snakes	Desert to Moderate	0-40%	75-85°F
Milk Snakes	Desert to Moderate	0-40%	75-85°F
Boas	Semi-Tropical/Tropical	25-75%	85-90°F
Pythons	Semi-Tropical/Tropical	25-75%	85-90°F
Arachnids	Desert to Moderate	0-40%	varies by species

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Red-ear Sliders Turtles

Size and Lifespan

• Adult red ear sliders normally reach 5 to 8 inches long
• If kept under proper conditions, red ear sliders often live up to 15-25 years, and sometimes even longer

• Males are smaller than females
• When adult, the male has longer for claws and longer, thicker nails
• Males have a concave or dented-in plastron (plastron is the bottom portion of the turtle)
• Females have a flat plastron

• An appropriate size container (15 gallons of tank size for each 5 inches of turtles is recommended) - the bigger the better!
• Provide enough water to enable your turtle to swim. (At least as deep as the length of the turtle's shell) The water level can be much deeper, however provide something they can climb on to completely come out of the water)
• Provide clean water with a good filter
• Use turtle clean once a week to help reduce waste and odours
• Make a 20% water change every week.
• Temperature should be 75-84ºF. If you notice that your turtle does not eat, raising the temperature by leaving the light on longer or adding a heater usually helps. If the water is too cold, your turtle might try to go into hibernation. If this does not work, adding a friend to your lonely turtle may be the solution.

• Turtle pellets
• Calcium blocks (Turtle requires heavy amounts of calcium to promote shell hardness and growth. Always provide a calcium block for this specific reason and to enable them to nibble on it.)
• Calcium liquid drops

• Before and after handling a turtle, thoroughly wash your hands with an antiseptic scrub. Make sure children follows this rule properly.
• Do not put your hands in your mouth when handling your turtle.
• Never kiss a turtle. Let children know that there are organisms that live in the turtle's water that can make them very sick.

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Hopefully you have found our information enjoyable and helpful on reptiles. Please, do not hesitate to contact us for any additional information or if you have any questions concerning your pet.